Duckstache Hospitality, the award-winning Japanese-focused restaurant group, is debuting its newest Houston-area restaurant in The Woodlands on Monday, March 10. Located at 24 Waterway, Kokoro Handroll Bar offers temaki (or temakizushi), nigiri, sashimi, gunkan, crudos and more as well as a selection of light-and-refreshing signature cocktails. Houston Food Finder was invited to preview its offerings ahead of its grand opening. Reservations are now available on OpenTable.

Duckstache was founded in 2019 by head chefs Daniel Lee (also known as Ducky) and Patrick Pham, who spent years working side-by-side at the Houston location of Uchi, and CFO C.J. Short. It has six concepts with eight locations across Houston and Dubai including Kokoro Sushi and Yakitori, Handies Douzo, Aiko — one of Houston Food Finder’s Best New Restaurants of 2022 — Himari and the recently opened Doko and Bar Doko. The Woodlands outpost of Kokoro Handroll Bar is preceded by its sister concept in Bravery Chef Hall and two locations in Dubai.

Like their other concepts, it’s about quality ingredients being treated with great care and respect for tradition while incorporating innovative, modern techniques. Expertly composed bites of nigiri are built with fresh sushi rice (high-quality seasoned short grain rice also known as sumeshi) and pristine seafood and beef sourced from highly-regarded suppliers which are accented with infused oils and delicate sauces. 

You’ll find proteins such as the prized A5 Wagyu, various cuts of hand-scraped bluefin tuna, and Big Glory Bay salmon. The latter is sustainable, ocean-farmed New Zealand King Salmon from a remote aquaculture farm off the coast of Stewart Island. The farm’s rigorous standards result in a distinctively rich, smooth flavor you can try in a hand roll, as nigiri or sashimi, or as a crudo with grapes and white ponzu. (The BGB Saketoro Aburi — torched salmon belly — is a must!) The same reverence is given to sourcing other fish and shellfish, including hamachi (yellowtail), hotate (scallop), kanpachi (amberjack), uni (sea urchin), caviar and more, each made visually appealing by some seriously skilled knife work.

We were impressed with every item from our meal. Each hand roll is delicately wrapped with high-quality nori (dried laver seaweed) that’s always crisp and brittle, never chewy or gummy. It provides aromatic, umami-rich and oceanic flavors with a pleasant texture. The hand rolls are available in sets or à la carte and meant to be eaten quickly with your hands. The service is outstanding, and the staff is eager to help make suggestions and answer questions.

In a temaki sushi bar, the best seat in the house is at the bar where you are handed each roll the moment it’s ready so you can best enjoy the crispness of the nori. This intimate setting is the thought process behind the name Kokoro, a Japanese word for “heart”, and allows for a bit of a show with dinner. The restaurant does have a number of tables to sit at as well if bar stools aren’t your thing. There’s also a stylish private dining room complete with a television — perfect for work presentations and celebrations.

There’s also a beverage list featuring wine, sake and beer in addition to house cocktails such as the Doko Gin & Tonic with Roku Japanese gin, cardamom, honey and tonic, the ‘Night ‘Night Espresso Martini with Haku Japanese vodka, brown sugar, Mr. Black Coffee Liqueur and MAVEN coffee, and the Waterway Spritz with Iichiko shochu, Aperol, bitters, sake and aloe. The menu additionally includes a number of non-alcoholic options such as hot tea, sodas and mocktails.

Kokoro Handroll Bar is open Sunday through Wednesday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Thursday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Mario-Sebastian Berry

Mario-Sebastian Berry is a wine and spirits vendor who has been in the hospitality industry since 2002. Currently, he represents Blanco, Texas-based Andalusia Whiskey Co. He holds numerous wine, beer and spirits certifications including Certified Sommelier. Somehow, he also finds time to be Houston Food Finder’s associate editor and social media manager.