New Restaurant in Southwest Houston Offers Global Menu
There was a time when the culinary descriptor “fusion” fell out of vogue, but it seems that at least one new business is embracing it again. Fusion59 emerged on August 2 in southwest Houston at 11786 Wilcrest near Highway 59. It’s owned by entrepreneur Shaukatali “Sam” Momin. The dining room is a modest 3,500 square feet with a contemporary feel, and there’s also a 1,100-square-foot patio.
Specifically, Fusion59’s cuisine is described as “global fusion,” or “traditional ethnic dishes with a unique spin.” The recipes were developed by consulting chef Kristi Courtney, previously of Daily Gather and The Pass and Provisions, among others.
The “fusion” part of the restaurant name seems to mean a menu of dishes from different countries rather than combining ingredients representing certain cultures — although there are a few of those, too. Some examples are the naan pizzas topped with traditional Italian ingredients, such as the Antipasto Pina with pomodoro sauce, mortadella, salami and prosciutto. It’s served with cherry tomato arugula salad. A “sando” usually means a Japanese-style sandwich, but the Fried Mortadella Sando with spicy remoulade, house pickles and gouda seems to take notes from Cajun fare. (Gouda, for what it’s worth, originated in the Netherlands.)
One of the signature appetizers is the 59 Fusion Wings in a choice of either Trinidadian jerk rub or coconut curry. Yogurt-chili sauce is served alongside, and there are 10 wings to an order for $16. On the entrée side, Fusion59 has a limited number of classics: five, to be precise. These include a 14-ounce rib eye with a choice of potatoes, fries or house salad for $41, rainbow trout with quintessentially French lemon beurre blanc for $32 and buttered chicken with murgh makhani sauce with wilted greens and creamed orzo for $22.
For drinks, there’s a sophisticated cocktail program, as well as domestic and imported beer and wine. Longtime Houston bar consultant JoJo Martinez (known not only for mixology, but also impressive flair techniques) developed the cocktail program. The creations include Mi Amorita, a summer-appropriate blend of tequila, rosé, orange liqueur, lime and rose essence and a riff on a French 75 called the French 59, which includes gin, spiced mango, lemon and champagne. The drink likely to make the biggest impression is The Family Tradition, a riff on an Old Fashioned smoked and presented in a clear box so the customer can see the action.
Additionally, for the rest of this month, the entire menu is half-off during happy hour, which runs from 3 to 6 p.m.
Fusion59’s hours are Sunday through Thursday from 3 to 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 3 to 11 p.m.
Phaedra Cook has written about Houston’s restaurant and bar scene since 2010. She was a regular contributor to My Table magazine (now closed) and was the lead restaurant critic for the Houston Press for two years, eventually being promoted to food editor. Cook founded Houston Food Finder in November 2016 and has been its editor and publisher ever since.