Ford Fry’s Tex-Mex Concept Superica Slated To Open In The Heights
The rumor mill has been churning for weeks, but a press release this morning confirms that five-time James Beard-nominated chef and restaurateur Ford Fry is opening a second restaurant in his hometown. (His first restaurant in the Bayou City is State of Grace.) The third incarnation of Superica, Fry’s Tex-Mex concept with two locations in Atlanta, is going into the spacious facility formerly occupied by the Treadsack Group’s defunct restaurants Bernadine’s and Hunky Dory.
At least, Superica is going into one of those two former restaurant spaces. In the other will go a yet-to-be-named casual “annex” focused on southern dishes and Gulf seafood. According to a press release, it will be “inspired by the chicken and oyster dinners at the old San Jacinto Inn, reminiscent of [Fry’s] childhood. Think killer fried chicken, raw and wood-roasted Gulf oysters and a pharmacy-style burger in a relaxed, fish-camp style setting.”
At Superica, look for traditional Tex-Mex renditions—such as seafood campechana, enchiladas and steak tacos al carbon—modeled after Fry’s and chef Kevin Maxey’s favorite versions of the dishes. Via press release, Fry says “Kevin and I set out to respect the evolution of Tex-Mex cuisine, not to reinvent the wheel. With so many versions of each ‘classic’ and popular dish, we picked our favorite versions of each using our non-negotiables of just-made, flour tortillas, warm fresh-to-order chips, various table salsas and cooking over live, Texas mesquite.”
On the bar menu, Superica will showcase spirits made in Texas, tequila, mezcal and housemade margaritas. It will also offer brunch. If the menu of one of the existing Superica locations is any indicator, brunch will feature migas, chilaquiles, tamales, a variety of Tex-Mex egg dishes and hot cakes as well as the requisite bloody mary and michelada offerings.
Superica and its annex are anticipated to open sometime next year.
We’ve requested an interview with Fry to get more details on how exactly he plans to repurpose the former Hunky Dory and Bernadine’s spot, an oddly shaped building originally meant to house two restaurants, not just one. We’ll update our coverage should we speak to the nationally famous chef and restaurateur.
Phaedra Cook has written about Houston’s restaurant and bar scene since 2010. She was a regular contributor to My Table magazine (now closed) and was the lead restaurant critic for the Houston Press for two years, eventually being promoted to food editor. Cook founded Houston Food Finder in November 2016 and has been its editor and publisher ever since.