Chef & Restaurateur Behind Superica & La Lucha is Bringing his Tacos to Houston

Little Rey taco

Atlanta-based restaurateur Ford Fry, who was raised in Houston, is bringing his taqueria to town. Little Rey will be joining his existing Houston restaurants Superica and La Lucha — albeit not in the same neighborhood of the Heights. Little Rey’s is opening at 2345 Mid Lane in River Oaks, next door to upscale apartment complexes The Ivy Park Place and The James Park Place. It’s only the second-ever location, with the original being in Atlanta, and the goal is for it to open this spring. 

While Superica is known for Tex-Mex, Little Rey’s instead focuses on Northern Mexican-style tacos and pollo al carbon (charcoal-grilled chicken). Some examples of the former include three types of tacos al carbonsteak, chicken and pork — as well as street tacos with corn tortillas, including carne asada, smoked suadero (brisket) with tomatillos and cascabel chiles, The Oaxaca with grilled Oaxacan cheese, poblano, mushroom and pico de gallo, and El Diablo with spicy shrimp, salsa macha, avocado crema, cheese, cabbage and jalapeños. The pollo al carbon comes in sizes ranging from a half-chicken that feeds two (or one very hungry person) to a two-pack that feeds six to eight. In addition, customers get their choice of corn or flour tortillas, smoked onions and jalapeños, ranch beans and cilantro rice

On weekends, from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., there are five types of breakfast tacos: chorizo, bacon, potato, steak, and mushroom, kale and poblano. All are made with housemade flour tortillas filled with migas (Tex-Mex-style scrambled eggs), twice-fried pork beans, cilantro and cheese. There are also some breakfast specialty plates, including Fry’s pancakes with buttermilk syrup, which you may have already enjoyed at Superica. 

Ford Fry
Chef Ford Fry and two fuzzy friends. Photo by Caroline Fontenot.

Salsas will be made in-house, as will be beverage director Eduardo Porto Carreiro’s margaritas, available both frozen and on the rocks. Those who prefer beer will find some Mexican selections, as well as local and regional craft ales, in a reach-in cooler. Those eschewing alcohol altogether might instead try a housemade agua fresca. Rounding out the menu are the soft-serve ice creams in unique flavors such as tres leches, salty cajeta and fried peanut. To get more hints as to what the Houston location will serve, you can peruse the full Atlanta menu online.   

The design for the space is meant to have a rustic Texan look, but sounds most evocative of the roadside wildflowers, with the color scheme being pastels such as “rose pink, deep blue and soft sage.” Accents include Old-World Mexico-inspired hand-painted signage, vintage memorabilia such as Mexican festival masks and art from creators in both Austin and Atlanta. 

There will be a covered patio, and a walk-up window will facilitate easy ordering from that area, as well as to-go order pickups. While the hours for the Little Rey’s Houston location are still to be announced, they’ll likely be similar to the one in Atlanta, opening at 11 a.m. on weekdays, 9 a.m. on weekends and closing around 9 or 10 p.m. We’ll know more as the opening draws closer. 

Comments (0)

Share Your Thoughts on This Article