Mekong Sandwich in northwest Houston is the kind of place the acronym IYKYK (If You Know You Know) was made for. This family-run hole-in-the-wall, located at 11600 Jones in the middle of a dated, beige strip mall, has been a stalwart showstopper since the Star Wars prequel trilogy was first released. In the years since opening, Mekong has changed owners and been through a few phases of ups and downs in quality driven by financial crises, pandemics and more (also similar to the Star Wars franchise) – but for the several years I’ve been going, it’s served as the kind of lunch-time getaway that few places can surpass when it comes to pure culinary comfort. 

The menu is extensive, with options including vermicelli bowls, fried rice, rice plates and soups. They do a lot of it wonderfully, but their bánh mìs are a highlight not to be missed. The fresh bread comes out warm and toasted to the ideal level of crispness on the outside – not so crunchy that it shreds the roof of your mouth like a rabid wolverine, but enough to sing a spectacularly sweet song of crackling crust when gently squeezed. The interior is light and fluffy, akin to the consistency of white bread. I’m not certain of the ratio of rice and wheat flour used for their bread, or if they make it in-house, but it reminds me fondly of the bread used at Cafe TH (now closed, but you can find the owner at a newer establishment). The quality and value at Mekong is a rare find in this period of inflation. It offers a number of fillings for the Vietnamese sandwiches, and does not skimp on portions, but my favorite is the smoky-sweet thịt nướng (charcoal-broiled BBQ pork). Mekong’s is unique in that it seems to be prepared similarly to Chinese barbecue pork, known as char siu, and has a flavorful red glaze. This pork is also available in most of the plated dishes, and the chicken is prepared in the same way. 

The phở and cơm tấm plates are equally as good. The broth is fragrant and flavorful, and surrounds an ample proportion of meat and noodles. The cơm tấm, a hearty platter of broken rice with various specially prepared proteins, sides and additions, is Herculean in size and can stand up to the best of Bellaire or Katy Asian Town. The house Nước chấm, a Vietnamese dipping sauce made with a base of fish sauce, served with several dishes on the menu is especially potent and addicting. Items like the Mekong Chicken, a simmered leg-quarter chicken served with steamed cabbage and rice, deliver an almost universal warm-wave of nostalgia.

Don’t make the mistake of overlooking the drink menu! From wholesome, hot, honey ginger tea and Vietnamese coffee (cà phê sữa đá) to summer refreshers such as fizzy lemonade and chè ba màu, (a slushy dessert beverage filled with layers of mung beans, bouncy pandan jelly and coconut cream – trust me on this one), Mekong offers a plethora of fun flavors. The drinks are almost as refreshing as seeing an independently owned diamond in the rough like this one sticking around for the long haul. The Force is certainly strong with this one. 

The area surrounding Mekong has grown into a competitive alcove for Vietnamese noodle soup, with a number of really great options including Pho Thang Long and Pho X Trang on 249, Pho MT Miền Trung on Jones, Pho Dahn on 1960 and Kim’s Pho & Grill Louetta, and you’d be pleased going to any of them; but for me, Mekong is simply a rare, thinly-sliced cut above. 

Mekong Sandwich is open Monday through Friday from 10 a.m to 6:30 p.m. and from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Saturdays. 

Mario-Sebastian Berry

Mario-Sebastian Berry is a wine and spirits vendor who has been in the hospitality industry since 2002. Currently, he represents Blanco, Texas-based Andalusia Whiskey Co. and multiple wine labels. Somehow, he also finds time to be Houston Food Finder’s associate editor social media manager.