My brunch experience at XOLO (also known as Bar Xolo) at 223 Westheimer in Montrose left me feeling like I’d just dined at one of Houston’s most-exciting new arrivals. Founded by executive chef Javier Becerra, mixologist Angel Bautista and partner Ivan Perez, the concept draws from their Mexico City roots and experience at ambitious Houston restaurants like MAD and Degust. The result is a program that channels the energy and polish of CDMX’s top dining and drinking destinations. “XOLO is an exciting opportunity to show where we’re both from and what we like,” Bautista said. “Nostalgia plays a big part in my cooking,” Becerra added.

XOLO offers all-day service: coffee drinks with Mexican pastries in the morning (including a delicious chocolate concha), dinner with cocktails and, most recently, daily brunch. I started with the light-and-lovely Oleo Espresso Tonic, which hit exactly right as I didn’t need brewed coffee and wasn’t ready for a cocktail quite yet. If you’ve not tried the combination of espresso and tonic, you should! It’s quite refreshing while providing a natural dose of caffeine.

The Tostada de Lentejas is one of my favorite dishes of the year — and it’s only $8. It’s earthy, soul-satisfying and artful. Based on the description, I was surprised when Bautista told me it’s really a salad — and so it is. The dish includes sprouted lentils, tomato, onion, serrano, lime, Cónico Azúl Corn, and avocado. You can add confit duck if you’d like. I’m sure that would be wonderful, but it’s not needed unless you’re really hungry.

I followed this up with my main course, the salsa verde chicken-filled enmolada (also known as enchilada con mole) featuring one of the best dang mole negros I have ever had. A dark mole from Oaxaca, these too often end up tasting slightly burnt. Not XOLO’s, which was everything I’ve ever dreamed a mole can be: silky, seductive and deep flavors of toasted nuts and dark unsweetened chocolate. Not only could I have licked the plate, I could have bathed in it.

Bread pudding fans, put this on your radar: pastry chef Veronica Garza’s is one of the best in Houston, and it has multiple special ingredients. The capirotada is made with conchas (Mexican sweet bread), pine nuts, raisins, pecans, and, best of all, butter used for the fat wash of the Butter Pecan Carajillo cocktails.

This was one of those visits that really made me wish that I had a second stomach (and a much higher metabolism). Every dish I had made me wish I could try more. I had to pass up the Milanesa as a result. I’ve been told that I have to return to try it, and I plan to do just that.

Phaedra Cook

Phaedra Cook has written about Houston’s restaurant and bar scene since 2010. She was a regular contributor to My Table magazine (now closed) and was the lead restaurant critic for the Houston Press for two years, eventually being promoted to food editor. Cook founded Houston Food Finder in November 2016 and has been its editor and publisher ever since.