Exilio Latin Flare isn’t an incantation from the Harry Potter universe. Exilio is the newest concept from Bari Hospitality Group, which also operates Bari Ristorante and Georgia James. It’s a modern Pan-Latin restaurant in the Harlow District in Montrose, adjacent to La Griglia and Katami, in the former Verde Garden space. The restaurant opened on May 5.

The menu, curated by chef Erik Cruz, is “inspired by the countries, cultures and ingredients of Central America, the Caribbean, South America, Mexico and Spain,” featuring dishes such as Peruvian ceviches, mesquite-grilled meats and wagyu empanadas.

Houston Food Finder was invited to sample the offerings, and our first impression was a strong one. Coming from an Ecuadorian background and having cut my teeth at a similar South American restaurant years ago, there were a lot of familiar flavors and ingredients I was delighted to experience. I dined with Houston Food Finder contributor Ryan Baker, who had just returned from a vacation in Spain and is of Mexican heritage.

We started at the bar and were greeted with hojaldras — crispy, airy flatbread pieces similar to sopaipillas — while getting the lay of the land from Exilio’s bar manager, Carlos, who shared background on the concept and guided us through the restaurant. Along the way, we also enjoyed a bevy of colorful libations and spirit tastings. His service and passion for his craft was one of the many highlights of the evening.

For dinner, we began with the arepas de queso with Jamón Serrano, chorizo de bellota ibérico and pan de cristal topped with a vibrant heirloom tomato tartare and boquerones over toast for $28. While the menu could be clearer in explaining that this is more of a charcuterie-style presentation featuring the bites mentioned above rather than a list of toppings, it exceeded expectations. Every ingredient was wonderful.

Next, we tried the braised short rib flautas for $18, and they were unsurprisingly delicious. The flautas are especially long and audibly crunchy due to the use of feuille de brick pastry. They come with a bed of salad for contrast and a piquant sauce you’ll want to keep on the table long after you’re done.

Our final starter was the tuna ceviche, which was also enjoyable, though the least compelling of the three dishes. Perhaps we made the mistake of digging into it after the flautas and arepas, but the flavors felt fairly muted by comparison. It’s still well-executed, we just agreed it could use a bit more heat or acid. The restaurant also offers a variety of ceviches, aguachiles and cocteles.

We took the staff’s recommendations for our main course and went with the Argentinian ribeye, which features imported Argentinian beef asado (open-fire barbecue) cooked over mesquite. The preparation gives the steak a rich yet subtle fire-kissed crust and a deeply savory, robust flavor.

Other steak options include wagyu skirt steak, filet mignon and strip loin. The ribeye is fantastic and complemented by chimichurri, garlic mushrooms and boniatos. At $56, it feels fairly priced for both the quality and the generous portion size.

The same can be said for the arroz a la tumbada, a traditional dish from Veracruz absolutely loaded with fresh clams, chargrilled octopus, prawns, crab meat and large chunks of sea bass over tomato rice for $42. We were very happy with this dish. Either entrée would have been enough for two people to split.

Other entrées include chicken molé, mesquite-grilled butterflied branzino, huachinango (grilled Gulf red snapper) and brocheta zarandeada, with pricing generally in line with restaurants such as Maison Pucha Bistro, Hugo’s, MAD, Churrascos and Pico’s for comparable dishes.

We also went with the recommended wine pairings, and I was pleasantly surprised to learn that the wine list for all three Bari concepts is curated by former Backstreet Café general manager Efren Herrera, who also stopped by the table to check on us throughout the meal.

The dessert menu includes nine different options priced at $12 each. We indulged in the tres leches with ancho-infused strawberry compote and rum-scented leche, churros with spicy xocolatl cajeta and horchata ice cream, and finally pistachio flan with amarena sauce, pistachio brittle and an alfajor. The churros were the favorite of the evening. If I could nitpick anything, the flan was just a touch too firm.

Overall, the meal was excellent, and we had very few critiques outside of some dishes being stronger than others. Our server was a delight, the hostess was friendly, and the restaurant’s layout is elegant and tastefully designed by acclaimed designer Carlos Castroparedes.

The biggest quibble was the pricing on certain items, such as the empanadas and tacos. While they feature premium ingredients, I’m not sure how easily Houstonians will wrap their heads around paying $28 for an order of two tacos, even with fillings like lobster and ribeye. Then again, Pappasito’s Cantina sells shrimp tacos for $24.95, and The Original Ninfa’s famously offers two tacos al carbón at a similar price point.

During happy hour, guests can get three of the fancified tacos or empanadas for $25. The weekend brunch menu is available Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m. and is considerably more affordable, with most options ranging from $14 to $24, plus there’s live music on the patio every other Sunday.

The restaurant shares valet service with its neighboring restaurants, though street parking is available nearby if you don’t mind a short stroll.

Exilio succeeds most when it embraces smoke, fire and bold Latin flavors, delivering a polished experience that feels ambitious without losing its sense of warmth. While a few dishes and prices may spark debate, the restaurant already feels poised to become a lively addition to Houston’s ever-growing collection of upscale dining destinations.

Exilio Latin Flair is open daily from 11 a.m. until 10 p.m.

Mario-Sebastian Berry

Mario-Sebastian Berry is a wine and spirits vendor who has been in the hospitality industry since 2002. Currently, he represents Blanco, Texas-based Andalusia Whiskey Co. He holds numerous wine, beer and spirits certifications including Certified Sommelier. Somehow, he also finds time to be Houston Food Finder’s associate editor and social media manager.