In late 2022, I wrote an article about a relatively new, under-the-radar restaurant with an eclectic owner, a young, talented chef, an energetic atmosphere and great food. City Cellars HTX survived its slow start, opening in the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic, and eventually built a following. Then, in December of 2023, after issues with the space and lack of parking, owner Daniel Wolfe was forced to close his restaurant and search for a new location. After several months of building out a brand-new space at 2850 Riverby in the East River Development, Wolfe says he  and his team, including original chef Antonette Williams-Wright, are ready to make “a triumphant return”. Wright’s other experience includes being a cook at State of Grace, The Briar Club and at Walt Disney World’s Animal Kingdom and The Yacht and Beach Club . Houston Food Finder was invited to check out the new location.

City Cellars HTX is one of the first places to open in the East River Development, which is just east of downtown Houston, but reminiscent of CityCentre in the Memorial City area. When complete, the center will house multiple apartment complexes, restaurants, shopping, health-and-wellness businesses and office buildings, all along Buffalo Bayou.

The new location is, in every way, an improvement. The space is abundant; more than three times the square footage and four times the guest capacity of the original (288 now versus 71 at the old space). There’s even enough space for City Cellars’ next project: an elegant but irreverent speakeasy, set to open later this year. 

The design elevates the original’s Houston-centric theme, with the artistic centerpiece being a mural that spans two walls and features Houston’s skyline and the iconic “Be Someone” railroad bridge that crosses over I-45 near downtown . In a nod to Houston’s “Space City” moniker, the dining room is partially illuminated by fixtures resembling the moon. The rest of the decor is more subdued if not traditional, approaching something that resembles a vintage steakhouse. Other features include a  custom floor-to-ceiling wine cellar at the entrance, a window with a view into the kitchen, that runs more that half the length of the restaurant and a magnificent patio overlooking Buffalo Bayou and with a view of downtown Houston that screams “photo opportunity”. While the view isn’t as grand, there is a second, equally charming, garden patio along the adjacent side of the restaurant. The building architecture was designed by Method Architecture and the interior was by Jessica Lynn Interiors.

As was the case before, Wright and her team are making everything from scratch, including appetizers like Sriracha Mac n’ Cheese balls, crab cakes and spinach and artichoke dip, as well as, returning entrées such as bacon-wrapped scallops served over risotto. I revisited my personal favorite from City Cellars’ past, the braised short rib served atop some of the city’s best cheesy grits. 

The new City Cellars is open everyday for not only dinner, but also lunch and brunch. With these additional menus, the expanded offerings include shrimp and grits, shakshuka, chicken and waffles, various omelettes and Benedicts, sandwiches and various combination boards.

While the restaurant was under construction, Wolfe took some time to travel the world, and that led to the  addition of dishes such as the previously mentioned shakshuka, as well as chilaquiles. Other dishes have been amended to show global inspiration, such as the Umami Burger seasoned with miso and topped with pickled carrots and daikon, and tempura onion rings and furikake-dusted fries served with yuzu-kosho mayo.

As with before, the restaurant has a full bar with craft cocktails, as well as an extensive wine selection. Unfortunately, as was the case with the first iteration of City Cellars HTX, the cocktails are the weakest link. Despite some daring naming, the beverages come off as timid, like the person creating the recipes was trying to hide the spirits with juices instead of crafting around the flavors. Even if the quality of ingredients is superior, the impression is similar to a party bar, where the drinks are meant for fast consumption. To clarify, I do not think this is an issue where they are being stingy on the amount of alcohol in the drinks It’s more likely an issue of not choosing spirits with enough flavor and alcohol content that can stand up to the other ingredients. City Cellars’ cocktails start at $14 and go up to $22, so the quality needs to match both the food and the decor. I know, I am known to be fussy about cocktails, but quality has consequences.

Among Houston restaurants, City Cellars is also something of an anomaly in that it’s a 21-and-up only venue and doesn’t allow kids. While the decision may be unpopular with some, for others there is something reassuring about a guaranteed sanctuary for grown ups. 

City Cellars is overall a classy atmosphere — except in a few areas where the fun may be out of hand. There’s a neon sign in the ladies’ room that makes a vulgar joke about vaginas that’s guaranteed to offend at least half of the female visitors. (Just to make sure this wasn’t just our opinion, we polled about a dozen women yesterday. We spoke with Wolfe about the feedback, and he is considering coming up with something less vulgar, although he also said younger women customers are less likely to be offended.) Then, there are the cocktail names — although some may have an altruistic purpose. For example, plans are for the drink called Birth Control to generate funds for a non-profit organization that defends women’s rights to reproductive freedom. All in all, City Cellars is fun, and if Wolfe were to lean into the quirkiness while avoiding unnecessary vulgarity, the restaurant could really set itself apart.

The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. The hours of operation are Monday through Wednesday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Thursday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to midnight, and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

3/18/2025, 9:42 a.m.: This article was updated to include Wright’s prior experience.

Ryan Kasey Baker